- Edit (TBD)
Description
Should probably be renamed "Dubious Enterprise" until the bolts are replaced. Either way, it was a fun route especially if unprotected mantles are your game. The guidebook was vague enough that it made it for a full value adventure. I'll describe it as we did it with suggestions for future parties.
The original rating doesn't have an R but I would consider it as such since a fall during the runout of the second pitch would be really bad, especially given the questionable nature of the bolts. With newer bolts you'd be unhappy but alive.
P1. Start up the black dike placing wide pro when it's available. When the crack peters out, ascend the face through three bolts (one 1/4" buttonhead, two homemade sheet metal bolts from the 70's). Hit a small ledge with an anchor of two ok bolts, one rusty 1/4" and one homemade hangar. At this point it's wise to consider retreating if you don't feel confident.
P2. Head up to a small ledge directly above the belay and clip another homemade bolt. Traverse hard right along the ledge clipping another ancient bolt and head up/right through unprotected face moves to the first pro at the bottom of a large block (right of the obvious left facing corner) about 30ft out from the last sheet metal hanger. Probably the most heady part of the route. Directly above this is a good ledge. Guidebook says one bolt, we found two.
P3 -
Orig
. Keep traversing right up easy but mostly unprotectable ground to join up with the South Buttress below a chimney. Go further right than you think (our mistake).
P3 -
Choose your own adventure
. We went directly up the easy but mostly unprotected face to the large dirt covered ledge. From here, we went right along the ledge and met up with the South Buttress just below the big roof. There's a bolt line further right that is probably in the 5.9 range (unknown route, new bolts).
P4. Scrambly pitch to the top.
Location
Starts in a black dike with an intermittent crack to the left of the South Buttress. Fairly obvious anchor atop the first pitch.
Protection
Bolts and gear up to BD #3. Single rack is probably fine but maybe doubles in 1-3.
Routes in Main Wall
- 2Spacious Enterprise5.8Trad