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Peak Mountain 3

Gates of Karakum

FA Dan and Tina Godshall
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Gates of Karakum shares the same start with

The Slot

, angling rightwards up a crack/ramp feature past one bolt and a few gear placements. In the same manner as

The Slot

, the initial rock is a bit grainy and detracts from the overall experience but is not an indicator for the climbing above. The rest of the route follows classic Thunder patina, starting with 3 bolts that chase a steep arete to a small roof. Pull right of the roof on natural gear (long slings are advised to minimize drag), and traverse right on a series of large but steep jugs. 2 more bolts protect a steep face before being able to pull up onto a rest ledge. Clip one more bolt above the ledge, and launch into the overhanging crux. Good gear (large hands followed by small fingers pieces) can be had through this sequence but is difficult to place due to the overhanging nature of the rock. An attentive belay and calm nerves are recommended due to the ledge below. After pulling the crux, easier but fun patina pulling deposits you at the anchors.

Location

Do the same start as

The Slot

. After 25 feet, move right past the line of 3 bolts.

Protection

7 bolts, a single rack from thin fingers to #3 Camalot, and a 2 bolt anchor with chains.