Medicine Crow

This is likely the second full-length route on the East Face. It was climbed ground up over 4 days in July of 2016. There are six double-bolt rappel stations, 4 of which can be used for belay anchors. No bolts were placed as protection, but pitons were necessary to avoid an X-rated first pitch, which is 5.9. The climbing is sustained and either good or awesome the entire way, but there are some run outs, not least of which on the crux pitch (pitch 4, the way we climbed it).

The crux pitch is a 5.11+ golden roof. The crux itself protects alright, but there is maybe 20 feet of 5.10 climbing after you pull it that is unprotected. It might be a little scary, but man is it fun.

The last pitch is also 5.11, and tops out spectacularly on the summit plateau of Cloud Peak, the tallest in the Bighorns. Really incredible positioning.

There is a large ledge about 2/3 up the wall. Here the route connects for a pitch and a half with A Shimmering Abstraction, but we believe the final top-out pitch is independent (and awesome).

I will post a better description and a topo, but for now if you are interested, email me directly and I can give you beta.

As with any alpine route, there is loose rock, but overall the rock quality was quite good.

Right of center on the East Face of Cloud Peak. With the addition of the bolted anchors, it is best to approach over the summit from the west, as the approach from the east is a beast, and can be subject to rockfall on the glacier later in the summer. However, if you are the next party to rappel the wall, you will want to bring some quick links or leaver slings/biners, as the bolted anchors do not have quick links and the slings we used will likely be unsafe.

A standard alpine rack, with a small set of knife blades for the first pitch, and possibly others. I think we placed one on the final pitch, and you could definitely place others.