Route 902

P1. Climb the obvious chimney to the right of

Southern Comfort

, over a steep section, and into a nice hand crack. Follow this straight up, clipping and passing the first fixed anchor you come to. Climb straight up the hand crack (staying left of the big roof where

Southern Comfort

goes up and right). Step up through a short, offwidth section onto a big, flat ledge. You can belay here if you need some sun and warmth, otherwise, continue up the easy chimney for 20 more feet to a fixed rappel anchor, 5.7 (130 feet). It may be possible to rappel from here to the ground with a 70m rope. If not, you can make 2 rappels from here with a single rope.

P2. Climb up the chimney, and struggle through the overhanging squeeze for about ten feet (crux). Continue up the easy gully above to another overhang, cave-like feature. Pull through the overhang, then step out right into a thin finger crack for some face climbing (small TCUs and nuts) to a flat area just below the true summit of Turkey Rock. (You can also continue up the wide crack to the same flat area, but I recommend the face.) 5.7+ (120 feet).

This route is on the sunny side of Turkey Rock and starts at the same place as for

Southern Comfort

(uphill from the cliff base area to the west). Look for the obvious, finger crack that is the first pitch of

Southern Comfort

. Descend by walking off to the east to the saddle where the trail comes over from the north parking area. Or , if not climbing to the top, there are fixed anchors which would allow you to rappel after one long pitch (ending just below the crux squeeze chimney), or you could set up a short top-rope on the first pitch of

Southern Comfort

.

Standard rack up to 4" will do. If you're a novice crack climber, you may want some extra hand-sized pieces, along with a #5 or #6 Camalot to help protect the squeeze chimney, but this isn't totally necessary (I brought up to a #4).