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Peak Mountain 3

Dangling Digit

FA James Weger & Aleida Matthies, April 1988
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the next obvious crack line to the left of

Hawkward

& Thirteen Cheeps (both 5.10b). This route is approximately 100' left and uphill from

Hawk's Nest

5.7.

This obvious finger crack starts off a ledge about 15' up. The traditional start traverses in from the left on the ledge. A much better (and harder) alternative is to do the bouldery direct start of ?? (5.10b) past a bolt to gain the crack. A few fun moves up the short and steep finger crack lead to a horizontal. Traverse the horizontal finger crack to the right around the corner and finish up easy face, or finish direct on ?? on grainy slab past another bolt. Gear belay or sling a large boulder up top.

Some of the fingerlocks are so good you might start to wonder about the route name...

Protection

Standard rack. Gear/sling belay. Walk off to climber's left.