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Peak Mountain 3

Empty Plate

FA James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 18 June 2005
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch #1: Climb the first pitch of Standard Thumb to the gully belay. Belay at a two bolt belay. 5.6, 140'.

Pitch #2: Continue in the gully on the Standard Thumb route to a two bolt belay. 5.7.

Pitch #3: Here, ascend out of the Gully onto Westwind Buttress past three bolts on a steep blank section to a thin crack/seam. The seam ends and you will pass more fixed bolts to mixed ground to a two bolt belay on a ledge. 5.9, A2. 110'.

Pitch #4. Turn the corner to the left and climb the thin steep crack and sling chicken heads and clip bolts to a small airy ledge with a two bolt belay. 5.7, A1. 90'.

Pitch #5: Fun climbing passing the knobs and 7 bolts to the end of the climb...just 15 feet below the actual summit. The rock quality deteriorates the higher up one climbs...the last pitch didn't deliver as promised...an empty plate. 5.8, A1

Location

East Face of Westwind Buttress.

Rappel the route with two ropes.

Protection

Most pitons were left in place. Take small selection.

A small selection of copper or alu heads.

Set of nuts and microcams.

Set of Camalots to #3

Assortment of hooks.

Please be sure to wear a helmet!