Northeast Slabs

This route is best explained in Select Climbs in the Cascades Vol II, by Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield. The route is also mentioned in Becky Cascades Guide Vol 2.

Ascend the obvious slab on the NE side of the mountain.  The second pitch can be difficult to protect with screws or pickets and trip reports refer to long run outs on thin ice and balancy mixed slab climbing.  Get on to the North Ridge.  From here, many lines are probably possible with varying difficulty.  The dry rock Notch has an exposed low 5th class/M3 pitch over the east face, another easier way up further west probably exists.  After the notch, it is relatively easy to make the summit.  The descent route is the standard rappel down the South Face of the Tooth.

The original grading was WI3 low 5th 50 to 70 degree ice (1st pitch variation).

On the NE side of the Tooth.  Use the source lake trail from Alpental to approach following the ski tracks.

10cm ice screws, pickets, alpine rock rack, knife blade piton.