- Edit (TBD)
Description
Great crack climbing to a wild exposed finish!P. 1 The original first pitch followed the corner just left of the Butolicious arete (funky gear) or alternatively moved out from the corner to the big flake to the left and up to the same anchor on the right side of the ledge 5.8-9? (better gear and climbing). I think a better link is to do the 10a Nameless Corner to the left, which brings you up to the left side of the same belay ledge. (there is a no star bolted line of mine in between up to the same ledge, that I was thinking of removing. Not sure if I ever did)P. 2 10d/11a? The money pitch! From the bolted anchor on the right side of the ledge head straight up the chimney/wide crack (bolt, possibly 2) which narrows to pumpy finger crack. Pull over into a stance, depump and head straight up on your left to an exposed bolted anchor above the overhangs. Lower back down to the ledge and rap from there.The belay ledge makes a great spot to view the sunset over Sawyer pond. The few rocks on the ledge help make a spot where things wont roll off, so please don't fling them off.
Location
Near the middle of the Sporty Area, left of the prominent arete of Butolicious
Protection
Regular rack of cams and nuts, slings plus a bolt or two at the start of P2. I added the bolt (s) in the wide section later, so you shouldn't need anything giant. Bolted anchors