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Peak Mountain 3

Salathe Route

FA John Salathe, Robin Hansen and Dick Houston, February 1946
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route has a well-deserved reputation for boldness not only for the first ascent led by the legendary John Salathe way back in 1946!, but for all those who follow in his footsteps(hint: tread lightly).

Start from the gully between the Hand and the Thumb and spot a single bolt out left on the left(south) wall leading to a huge belay knob.  Traverse left to the bolt and then up and left onto the knob with a two-bolt anchor.

The second pitch climbs more or less straight up to a bolt and then angles up and left to a second bolt.  More left and upward climbing leads to the top of the climb and a two-bolt anchor shared with the Wilts Bolt Variation.

To descend, scramble 100 feet uphill to find a 2-bolt anchor with chains on top of the route Lifeline. Rappel 95' to the base of the route.

On the first ascent, Salathe reportedly found several piton placements on the second pitch.  Good luck with that!  Also, before belay bolts were installed at the top of the first pitch, the belay anchors consisted of driving pitons into the small cracks on the underside of the belay knob.

Location

From the base of the Hand/Thumb, 3rd class up an obvious crack past a tree and a pod to gain a sloping ledge.  Continue left on this ledge into the gully between the Hand and the Thumb.  Spot the first bolt and big knob which mark the first pitch on the left(south) wall.

Protection

6-7 quickdraws and some grit.