- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a fun, easier-than-it-looks route (save for the start) that is definitely worth the effort. A stick clip is strongly advised unless you are somewhat tall or toprope it after leading one of the routes to the left.
The crux (to me) comes right off the start as you pull aboard fighting your right hand's feeling of being levered off the flat jug. Falling here without the bolt being clipped would...suck. Once aboard, the rest of the route is probably 5.8...and delightful...
though folks who are short or who like lots of footholds may disagree
. The roof looks intimidating, but it climbs much easier than you fear.
FWIW, you can go right at the roof, but then it'd be hard to clip the bolt before the roof
. Once above the roof, the difficulties evaporate as you smile from your efforts below. The finish is shared with the two routes to the left.
Also, note I've been told that some start this a bit to the left, traversing in, which can keep the start safer and easier. In addition, we TR'ed the right start. It is loose and unprotected but goes ~5.10.
Location
This is currently the 3rd route from the left and aims for a roof with a small, right-facing dihedral.
Protection
9 bolts, a stick clip, and a chained 2 bolt anchor.