Last Rites

"Bold and intimidating, this route is sure to please the hardcore crack climber."

This is a sustained and serious route. It was a classic line when it went up nearly 20 years ago. But since then, the bat guano Baum mentions has become HUGE! It has caused the lower third of the route to become... slick... bring some hand sanitizer.

The route itself climbs a giant open book corner for 200 feet. There are 4 cruxes: baggy fingers down low, a rest then a stout OW before the belay. Next, a bouldery throw into a steep finger lock right off the belay. Finally, the psychological crux: 20+ feet of full body stems with one marginal piece of pro- a red camalot. From a final rest there is a choice of 10 fingers in a left facing corner or a 9+ splitter on the right.

The corner sits about 150ft left from the quarry. There are the remains of a very old wooden ladder at the base.

Doubles up to a #3, and one #4. A #1 Camalot is essential to safely protect the stem crux.

Could be led as a proud mega pitch in which case you'd want triples from 0.2-2, double 3s and one 4