- Edit (TBD)
EOES: The Eye of Every Storm
Description
The middle of the three RIP lines, this one heads up a 30 degree panel. A short but sustained problem revolving around twin 1-pad monos. In 16 hand moves, every one demands power and finger strength. Five or six moves are particularly hard, not low-percentage but certainly tendon intensive to own the holds. The first ascent was done sans chalk bag, and took less than 90 seconds. May be equivalent to a long V9 boulder. Acceptable to stick clip the 1st or 2nd bolt, but not the 3rd. Normal to traverse in from the right at the beginning. In the crux there is a working bolt which is not normally clipped. With a better landing and a ton of pads someone (not me) could certainly boulder this. You'll be glad to have a rope (but not so stoked about having to make the clips).
Protection
5 bolts to two bolt anchor. Glueins 2020. One is a working bolt and is not normally clipped.
Routes in The R.I.P.
- 5EOES: The Eye of Every Storm5.13cSport · Bouldering