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Description
This route climbs the buttress to the right of the hiker's gully. The first pitch is okay and pretty short. The second pitch is great and the highlight of the climb. The third pitch is a little sketchy and not that much fun. Also, you should note that this route does not take you all the way to the summit of Brown's peak. When you get to the top of the Ladybug you then have to rap down to the hikers gully or to the southwest where you can scramble over to the gully. There is also much loose rock on the last pitch. See Greg Opland's book Phoenix Rock II for additional information.
Location
Continue up the trail towards the gully which turns into a scramble as you get closer to the start of the gully. Avoid moving right too early or you may not find the route. Head towards the gully until just a few feet before you enter the gully, then move right along the bottom face of the buttress. The Ladybug starts just maybe 30 feet to the right of the gully. The kind of just wanders up intermittent ctacks and broken face across ledges, so dont worry too much about your starting point or path. Plan on at least 2.5 hours from central Phoenix to the base of the climb.
Protection
Plenty of places for pro of all sizes. No bolts, no anchors, no fixed gear except the first two pitches have new anchors and there issome old webbing you may find at the false summit slung around some sketchy block, that is if the block didn't fall on the last people who rap'd it. The very top has two poorly located glue ins so its hard to pull your rope after wrapping. A single 70m will get you all the way into the gully.
Routes in Brown's Peak
- 1The Ladybug5.5Alpine · Trad