Matriarch

When Kurt Smith bolted

Presto

, I was a little disappointed because he added only one route where I figured there could be two. Matriarch was conceived as a direct start to Presto. Challenging moves put you on a sloping ledge. Step left, then work up a small right-facing arch to the crux dyno for slopers. A few quick pulls deposit you in the lay-down rest on

Presto

, but the climbing isn't over. Two more .12 cruxes on the upper half of

Presto

(with another great rest in between) take you to the anchor hooks and a free-hanging drop to the base.

Seven bolts to a two bolt anchor with open 1/2" coldshuts.