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Peak Mountain 3

Willy on a Stick

FA Dan Snyder
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Description

The left of two bolt lines, the other being Pleasure to Burn. Follow low angle rock with jugs up a lichened ramp to the real climbing. The route changes from slab to vertical to slightly overhanging, so the endurance crux comes near the anchors.

We pulled off a few cobbles and talked to others who also did. Wear a helmet and climb gingerly. There isn't much room or footing at the base making it slightly harder for the belayer to dodge cobble bombs.

Location

First two routes as you approach. Leftmost of the pair Willy on a Stick and Pleasure to Burn. The low angled ramp at the beginning has a lot of lichen. These routes sit between a cleft and a black streak.

We lowered with a 70m rope. I cannot verify if a 60m works.

Protection

19 draws total and a helmet (esp. for the belayer). Two chain anchor at the top.