- Edit (TBD)
Description
Another Fork in Eden is a direct line to the summit of the upper face of Willard, providing a reasonable way to the top of the formation without rappelling. Its an okay route on its own, but makes for a nice 7-8 pitch adventure to the summit of Willard if combined with any of the routes on the main slab. Once on route expect protection where you need it and an obvious line to follow.P1. Identify a knife blade and three bolts leading up to a chossy but juggy dike. From there continue up cracks and corners of varying consistency and protectability to a nice two bolt anchor at about 150' up the pitch. 5.10/5.10+P2. Off the anchor climb straight into a headwall protected by bolts. Weirdly juggy sidepulls and underclings lead to some fragile friction climbing. The holds are crumbly, but the bolts are good. I expect that this pitch will get more difficult with every subsequent ascent until it is no longer climbable. No big dangerous choss if you stay on the line. In the meantime it is relatively fun and pretty safe. As of 2021 it felt about 5.10/10+, both I and my second broke the crux as passed it. P3. Spruce up your life with this pitch of vertical vegetation climbing. Take the obvious line straight up into the obvious finish. Obviously about 5.Tree.Easy walk off, the trail from the summit of this climb to the nice viewpoint on the Willard main trail took us about 3 minutes to find and involved no bushwacking.
Location
On the upper tier this line is about 60-70' right of a steep looking route that currently sports homemade hangers, almost directly above across the universe. To find Another Fork in Eden, start from a sheltered flat spot almost directly above across the universe, head right along the face up a short hill to identify a left facing corner with a wide crack made by an obvious flake. The line should be easily identifiable by a knifeblade within a few feet of the first bolt, or by an obvious line of three bolts.
Protection
Whatever makes you warm and fuzzy when you go into adventure land. Probably whatever you brought on across the universe will suffice.
Routes in 04.Upper Face / Upper Tier
- 1Another Fork in Eden5.10+Alpine · Trad