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Peak Mountain 3

Flyin' lion

FA Matt Fanning 11/03/18
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route climbs the project formerly known as the nightmare project. It was bolted by Brian McCray and Tom Cecil in the late 80's. This giant intimidating cave route fell into obscurity after the early 90's. The 2 people known to have tried it before Mike Farnsworth were Stephan Glowacz and Jordi Salas. Stephan apparently backed off due to a loose block(i couldn't find it) and Jordi worked on it for a season. Start in the back of the cave and climb "nightmare 13a" for 7 bolts to an almost no hands rest. Then continue out the roof past 4 more bolts through a difficult crux turning the lip ~ v9. After the lip stay light on your feet to reach the 2 bolt anchor.

Location

Start in the back of the south end cave

Protection

11 bolts (the top 4 are rusted)