- Edit (TBD)
Description
This climb was a long time in the making and almost got lost in the stacks. Over a year ago I rapped down past remnants of a 20 year old fixed line, several old exploratory bolts, and a section of manufactured / altered holds on what was one of the last undone lines from the development push in the late 90s. I was happy to find solid rock and 5.12 climbing throughout the lower portion of the gently overhung wall followed by three consecutive amazing and difficult boulder problems climbing through the steepest section of the route. Above the bulge lies a technical section that will steal your send. Manage that and you'll get the opportunity to gather your wits before the final tricky compression boulder that guards the chains.
Bring your power endurance, fresh shoulder muscles, and your reach for this one. There are several long moves to and from poor holds that require a high level of accuracy. More often than not these moves left be banging my head against the wall and hanging at the end of the rope.
This is a stellar and challenging climb.
Location
Just right of One Punch Man and beginning from the same large pod formation.
Protection
9 bolts to lower-off anchors. 3 permadraws through the crux section.
Routes in 6 - Swallow Wall
- 26Forgotten Works5.14aSport