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Peak Mountain 3

Forget the Bolts

FA FFA: Ross Swanson, George Bracksieck, FA: 5.9 A3, Steve Johnson, George Bracksieck, 1979-80
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Description

From the pulloff, cross the wooden bridge and go up the talus slope to base of low angle, gray rock. Do an approach pitch to the center of formation below the overhang.

P1. Climb up and around the overhang on left side to corner, continue up this to a second corner, then traverse 30' right, just past crack with guano. Set the belay at an inset.

P2. Climb up right side of the inset (fixed RP) at its top, stem left and go up a series of small ledges. At second ledge, place gray Alien in a horizontal crack on your LEFT. Near the top, lasso a horn for the exit move.

Location

While driving south on CO 72 and a couple tenths of a mile before Piz Badille is a rock formation across the river at a pullout with a wooden bridge. The rock sits above on a talus slope, the bottom of the formation is low angle, gray rock.

Protection

SR with RPs or HBs, a gray Alien was used midway on P2, an ~25cm sling to lasso a horn on P2's exit move.


Routes in Piz Cengalo


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    Forget the Bolts
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