Keys Ranch Road

Came across this climb in Todd G's sport guide. Interesting route and worth doing, especially on a busy day as I don't think many people wander back here.

The first pitch has a fifth class move passing the first bolt and then an easy traverse on a ledge passing some bolts and pins.  There is a bolted belay just past the ledge.  The first pitch appears to just get you where the climbing starts.

The second pitch contains some adventurous and interesting climbing (though quite grainy in areas).  Traverse out on a good 3"-4" ledge with bolts every 15 or so feet.  After passing about five bolts the ledge begins to disappear and you make your way up and right onto the slabby face passing 3 more bolts until you reach the anchor, a variety of paths exist.

As mentioned in the guide book, after the the 6th bolt you'll need to start to head up to the anchor. There is another bolt out to the right and slightly down that is part of another route and almost had me suckered into going that way.

Unlike the other climbs listed here on Rockworks rock, this climb is on the west face.  We approached from the Echo Rock parking lot.  Walk around to the east side of Echo rock heading north, passing Little Hunk on your right, then turn east after passing the end of Little Hunk.  Look to the NE and you'll see Idyllwild dome (large and low angle).  Walk to the south of this dome and after passing the southern point turn north.  The west face of Rockworks rock will be on your right.

Hike to the northern tip of the valley between the two formations and scramble up and right to find the beginning of the climb.

You could also approach from the Gunsmoke area by walking 300-400 yard NNW and heading for the gap between Idyllwild dome and Rockworks rock.

Pitch 1: 3 bolts, 2 pins. Pitch 2: 8 bolts.