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Peak Mountain 3

Renegade

FA Kenton Anderson
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

For this boulder, don't use any of the surroundings for hands/feet.  This means that you will have to campus the first few moves until you get high enough to get your feet on the boulder.  Left hand starts on a decent pocket and right hand starts on a two finger pocket with a place for your thumb.  Campus your hands up until you can get a left foot heel hook on the large jug a couple inches above the left hand start hold.  Once you get the heel hook, get the best left hand you can find and stand up on the heel to grab a high right hand sidepull (this move is the crux).  After gaining the sidepull, you should be able to get your feet properly under you and find good hands top get to the topout.  There's a few different ways you can go at the top that are all fairly easy but I found that heading out right towards the spike at the top was the most secure and cleanest way to top out.  Maybe if some of the mud at the top gets cleaned off then topping out directly up the center might be preferable.  Just be careful at the top, the further left you go, the worse the rock quality gets, the muddier it gets, and the landing starts to get sketchy because of the rock behind/bellow you.

Check the photos and their descriptions for more information.

Also I just wanted to add that if you don't want to do the full topout, you can just climb until you get both hands either on or above the horizontal crack that goes across the entire boulder about a foot above the right hand side pull that you use during the crux of the climb.  At this point you have done all of the parts of the climb that give it the grade and can still drop off very safely.  There is a picture that highlights the more useful holds for the topout  and in the picture anything circled (except for the lowest circle, which is really a two finger pocket)  would work as a finish hold for a safe dropoff.

Location

This boulder is located between Pooh's Corner and Dirty Little Boulder.  I currently have it listed as unsorted under Dirty Little Boulder because there isn't actually a location name for the area yet.  If you are looking at Dirty Little Bolder, just walk 30-ish feet to the left and you should see this boulder suspended in the air on the same wall.  If you make it to Pooh's Corner then you've gone too far.

Protection

Two pads or one pad and a spotter will get the job done but the more pads you can get the better.  It's a high climb with a nice flat landing.