- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route climbs a slabby, fine-grained, in-leaning, bullet-shaped pillar. Quite a bit of chimneying at the start giving way to pure friction climbing (palm pillar, smear, step and repeat in a steady unbroken sequence) that wanders around the pillar-- angle is pretty low, but the bolting is quite sparse. Weird, runout, a tiny bit spooky, and not wholly pleasant (particularly with some rain during our climb) but memorable and different all the same.
Location
This rather forgotten route starts more or less at the same spot that Rum and Coke (5.10+) does. Anchors at the top of Is That Uranus weren't in good shape (this was a few years back), so we ended up traversing over and rapping off the Pluto's Playground (5.9+)anchors. Took two double-rope rappels, with the second rap from the Make Believe (5.8+) anchors, to get down that way if I am remembering correctly???
Protection
3 bolts with the first quite high off the ground. You'll probably end up doing some chimneying off to the right , if memory serves, side of the pillar against an adjacent formation to get to the first bolt.
Routes in Middle Marker Area
- 29Is That Uranus5.6Sport