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Peak Mountain 3

The Labyrinth

FA Ethan Newman, Joel Enrico, Steffan Gregory, Alan Thorne, Rob Warden
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The Labyrinth goes up the north face of Minotaur Tower, through a series of cracks and flakes.

P1: short 5.10 crack in a corner leads to 5.8 lower angle terrain. Belay off gear stuffed in the bottom of the big flake.

P2: The Black Sail of Theseus. Layback and jam up the bolted flake, continuing up discontinuous cracks and seams. Belay off bolts.

P3: Mixed bolts and gear up podded cracks, with a sandy top-out onto Ariadne's Beach.

P4: Move belay to the next ledge via 10 feet of easy but chossy 5th to the right, then walk the ledge back left. You might want a belay for it.

Pass the obvious hand-fist crack and continue on the ledge left to the laser cut offset splitter. If you have camhooks for fingers, layback the thinness, or otherwise french free a couple of moves to the fingerlocks and continue up a widening crack to the roof. Clip bolts out the roof around the Buffalo Chip Flake. Belay off bolts.

P5/6: Go up the fist crack in the stem box through the roof, then climb hand jams and finger locks to a ledge. Pass the rap/optional belay anchor and continue up the corner to the ledge below the summit block, where it meets up with Suburban Blondes. Belay off bolt and gear.

P7: Walk around right to finish on Megamahedral summit pitch.

Location

Park or get off the shuttle at Big Bend. Cross the river and approach as for Megamahedral. Pass Megamahedral and scramble up the Suburban Blondes gully. Continue past Suburban blondes and scramble out a skinny ledge system to a dark shallow corner above a little scoop feature. Belayer will probably want a piece of gear to hang on for P1.

Protection

Doubles 1/3" to 4", extra 1.5-2.5" nice for P4.


Routes in The Minotaur