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Peak Mountain 3

The House Always Wins

FA Barroso, Unema,
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

I always looked at this very aesthetic line thinking it would be amazing, When I rapped down I found a handful of old 3/8 inch cobweb filled bolt holes that the Gambler might have put in. Since he wont care, I decided to bolt it up, and am really happy with how it climbs.

This climb shares the start with the unknown Ayers 11c, just left of short stop and gila monster.

One you pull the 11c opening roof, move right and up to the ledge. Continue up and right past two bolts that you should extend with runners. Eventually you are stemming in the giant corner. Clip the bolt off to your right and transfer onto the main face of the climb. The bolt after that is a bit tricky to see, but it's next to the first huge jug on the face. Sustained 5.11 climbing follows, broken up by decent shakeouts, all the way to the tippy top of roughrider. You could even top out if you wanted.

Location

Just left of shortstop which is left of the massive chimney on the left side of the North Buttress

Protection

21 bolts, I would bring long draws for the bolt under the first roof, the two bolts after the first standing rest, and maybe another for the second to last roof. BRING A FULL 70 METER ROPE!