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Peak Mountain 3

Roofy Direct

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Description

Fun (strenuous) moves over the roof -- almost indoor-style with jug holds, even two "handles" a bit higher up. More outdoorsy to first get to the roof.

Start on wide open book under the roof. Up that (perhaps easier to step left around a little ridge then up that) to grab the big "tongue" just below the left half of the roof. Up and over. Finish easy up to wide ledge.

? variation 1: The 2011 print guidebook hints that it might be possible to start up the ridge directly to the bottom of thin crack (or crimp rail?) to left of open book.

? variation 2 "Indirect" (5.9): Instead of grabbing the tongue, first step left across the rounded ridge to a thin crack, then up the crack and over the roof with (if you get them right) fun moves.

Location

Below left side of obvious 2-foot-deep roof about 15 feet up, which has Thread the Gap at its right end. A rounded ridge extends down below this end of the roof, with a thin roughly-vertical crack on left side of ridge.

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Protection

Trad: Standard rack plus tricams.Setting up Top-Rope requires long static line or several long slings.. . (likely want to use both trees on the ledge above and set the top anchor between them).