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Peak Mountain 3

Thin Air

FA Mike Long, Rand Black, Dec 1982
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start at the right side of the north face of the dome below beautiful looking crack with pitons?

Climb up stiff 5.9+ face climbing up the coarse grained granite (no pro) and right to the start of the fingertip-lyback crack (piton?) at the contact of the fine grained aplite.  Work through the rattily finger/barndoor 5.11- crux to a med. to large cam belay at the ledge above.

Note: this route was put up before the advent of TCU's, which is why pitons were fixed on the FA. If you aren't climbing real solid, you can set up a top rope after climbing "Smooth Sailing" to the left.

Historical factoid:  The beachball-sized rock at the base of the climb used to be pasted at the contact/base of crack above, and on a subsequent ascent, a #2-1/2 friend was placed behind that block.  I fell on the friend, which popped the flake off and I grounded out landing on my feet -- just as the block came crashing down inches from crushing both my feet. -- RB

Location

Look for the aplite crack with fixed pitons(?) about 15' above a beachball sized boulder at base. This is the far most right route on the north side.

Protection

Original FA fixed two 3/4" angle pitons in crack, which may still be present. Use small cams/units and/or nuts to protect the crack (and backup the pitons if present) as the stiff 15' face below has no bolted protection.