- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is already described as a variation of Magic Fern, but it seems to me worthy of it's own designation as a route. And there is confusion about which goes where. Jon's overview map found on this area heading is helpful here. The Clint Cummins book gives it a 11a, SVR gives it the 10d. The start was 5.8 in both books, which seems right once you make it to the first finger lock. The left side crack on the fin above is the thin tips crux. It is short and protects with small nuts and cams. The 2nd pitch is the chimney on the right above the big ledge to flaring hands ( originally considered 5.9) which I would agree with others posting on Magic Fern, that it is 10a.
Location
right of Wet Dream.
Protection
standard rack. If doing as one long pitch you may want doubles. offset brass nuts and tiny cams for crux.
SS rap ring anchor.
Routes in Private Idaho
- 15Curious Poses5.10+Trad