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Peak Mountain 3

Absolution

FA Madeleine Sorkin and Chip Chace, FFA Josh Wharton and Chip Chace
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P-1 Climb a left facing corner to a pod. Break out right and climb face relief to a prominent rail. You can stay closer to your gear by continuing another six feet up the corner though the climbing is harder and the rock crunchier. Hand-traverse the rail for 20 feet and belay. A #6 cam is handy for the end of the traverse but you can do another move and get in a mid size cam before the anchor. 100’, 5.11.

P-2 Move up and left on soft rock past a bolt to gain the varnished black, right facing corner. Climb this on thin, thoughtful gear to a no-hands rest. Either traverse left to a bolt and climb up and back right to the anchor, or continue up the blank corner past a bolt. 80’, 5.11 (left) or 5.13- (direct).

P-3 Proceed up and right on ledges until it is possible to step left into the corner above the soft rock. Continue up the corner to the summit. 70’, 5.9.

Location

Absolution climbs the prominent right facing corner system on the West face of the Sister Superior group, 150’ left of Jah Man.

Descent: 3 single rope rappels.

Protection

Doubles 00-#1 camalot, #2x1 #4x2, a few smallish wires (#3-6 BD). A #6 camalot is optional. 6 Long slings, and a few quick draws. One rope.