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Peak Mountain 3

Madmen Rule the World

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Description

Climb easier rock to the second bolt. From here, decide if you want to try to find holds in the blank-looking face straight up, or climb easy rock up and far right and then traverse back to the bolt. Repeat for bolts 4 and 5, but by climbing less far off the bolt line. Climb steeper rock on good holds to the top.

Climbing this route using holds to the right of bolts 3-5 and traversing back to clip is still 5.10d. It appears that climbing directly on bolt line would be harder.

Location

Right side of Second Buttress, currently second bolt line from the right. Start with a high step over a low roof.

Protection

7 bolts, 2-bolt anchor. Not a good idea to fall just before traversing back left to clip the 3rd bolt. The climbing on this leftward traverse is not hard, but not trivial.