Thai Hot

This route shoots directly for the large jagged roof above ledge 2. It proved to be even tougher than it looks. Most of the moves linked well and were there, but in the end, we aided through about a body length. The FFA should go around mid-5.12 with a bit more alpine gusto.

If one can utilize a safer approach pitch to the roof and free said roof, this would become a quality line.

Approach

From Black Lake, head straight up to East Buttress of Arrowhead over "involved" terrain.

P1

. Start up the flaky, left-facing corner until reaching a ledge. Traverse right for 6 feet using great hand jams, and climb straight up the wide 4" crack. Belay at a small ledge, or battle rope drag up to Ledge 2,

(5.9, 35m)

.

P2

. Chimney up to a slabby finger crack with great locks and gear. Belay at Ledge 2,

(5.7, 10m)

.

P3

. The roof pitch. Stem up between the wall and the giant, leaning, detached columns with little to no gear. This is very spicy. After reaching the mini-roof, escape from the corner and onto the column to the right. Climb through the meat of the jagged roof via the rightmost crack using reachy hand jams, cramped smearing, underclings, and inspiring gear for about 12 feet (crux). Pull the lip as the crack widens to #3 until it tapers again to twin tight hands. Stop above the roof for a stance belay to avoid rope drag,

(5.10R C1, 15m)

.

P4

. Follow the rad, twin, over-vertical finger cracks to a small ledge. Sidestep to the rightmost crack around the corner, and layback up to the slab. Follow the wide, leaning crack to the summit,

(5.11-, 25m)

.

DESCENT

. Either rap

Full Metal Jacket

, or hike over the top of the East Buttress to the North West and scramble down to the South Ramp.

The route begins in a crumbly, left-facing corner at the far (climber's) left end of the East Buttress of Arrowhead.

Single rack to #4, doubles in fingers and #0.75-2, and a 70m rope (for the rap descent).