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Peak Mountain 3

The Artful Dodger

FA Grant Simmons, April 2016
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1: Devious climbing up the bolted corner. The first few bolts suffer from unfortunate rock quality, but the rock significantly improves in the second half where sneaky holds and thought-provoking moves make for fine climbing. 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. 5.11b.

Pitch 2: A pitch that would feel at home on the South Buttress of Whitehorse: fine rock and ticky-tacky face climbing. Move right across the ledge to gain the pocketed headwall and a thin, bolted traverse. Finish up the orange slab. 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. 5.10d.

Single rope rappel to the ground (use caution with a 60m; it'll be close...).

Location

Locate the route at the toe of the central buttress. Begin immediately right of "Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner" at a bolted, right-facing corner.

Protection

A .5 camalot protects the exit of Pitch 1 and the entrance to Pitch 2.


Routes in Painted Walls