Anthony

This is one of several overlooked routes at Parks, perhaps due to its difficulty - both to find and to climb. It follows the arete immediately right of the 5.9 wall (Elf Toes, Cold Shot, Turkey Trot, etc), switching from a blocky start to a near-vertical slab finish on micro-nubbins. Begin at the cluster of pines at the base of the arete, working your way straight up the stack of strenuous blocks. Placing gear makes it PG. The first bolt is almost half-way up the route, when the face climbing starts -- from the last tiny ledge, strike off at 45 degrees to the left, following 2 bolts to a small flake then 3 more bolts to the anchor. Strenuous climbing for the grade (from the original guide book), with slightly crumbly rock on the left side of the route. (Straight up from the last ledge is Cleopatra, 5.11a.)Ascend Pharaoh (5.10d) to top out. 

Hike along the base of the cliff until it descends beyond Living in the Past and Elf Toes (the clear, smooth slab about 5 minutes from Craig's Crack). Once it starts up hill again, squeeze upwards past the large broken flake at the cliff base and a large boulder. Traverse about 20' to the base of the arete in a small cluster of pines.

5 bolts to a quick-link bolted anchor. The first 20' of blocks takes cams to 3" to minimize risk of falls. (Re-bolted since original 1992 line.)