Gneiss Roof (AKA: Nice Ride)

Climb P1 and P2 of

Ride the Snake

, for a link-up dubbed "Nice Ride". This was originally approached with the first pitch of

Gneiss Route

.

P3. 5.9, 40 feet, 3 bolts and gear. Stem up a short dihedral to the roof, clip the black bolt with a long sling, and traverse left (gear 0.5 C4). Pull around the left side of the roof, and climb up to the plush Ashtray Belay (optional small nut).

P4. Stem up dihedral, step right and stretch up to the start of the roof crack (#2 Camalot). Make an airy hand traverse right using the roof crack for pro (#0.75 and #1 Camalot), placing the last piece as high as you can reach. Mantel over the right side of the roof, and clip a bolt to protect the airy and steep crux. Continue straight up over slabs, bulges, and roofs to Surette Ledge. There is an optional creative mid-pitch gear belay above the fourth bolt. 7 bolts and gear, 5.9+/10, 120 feet.

BONUS pitch (10+): once on Surette Ledge, you could traverse all the way right to the last pitch of

Wild Child

to top out on Mission Wall!

Descent: walk off left across exposed ledge and descend the loose hillside. OR, traverse right to last anchors of

Gneiss Route

, and rap twice with two ropes or three times with 70m cord, but the better option is to rap

Rocketman

and require two ropes. Rap 65', then do a full 200' rap. Be very careful of loose rock on the ledge.

12 QDs (few mid- and shoulder-length slings) and a light rack including a few stoppers and small cams up to a #2 C4.