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OK, people say the ratings at Vantage tend to be soft. This is rated 10d in the book and I hesitate to upgrade, but it is much harder than quite a few 11a's I have done at Vantage- maybe those should be downgraded.
Approach on the right side of broken column, chimney up to first bolt.
Crux between 4th and 6th bolt. I have tried both sides of column, a bit thinner on the left, more awkward on the right- with more gear options if you want from the crack. Being in the center on tiny crimps feels more like 11a.
Location
The column arete behind a short pillar and right of Mr. Clean- 11a finger crack.
Protection
9 bolts, cams for crack, small cams up to 1-2"- perhaps the name implies this.
This now has a bolted sport clip anchor.
Routes in (c) King Pins
- 11Never Forget Your Friends5.11aSport