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Peak Mountain 3

Upchouca

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Description

This difficult climb starts out with a 15 foot cruxy section on shallow, sloping pockets and small edges. Crimp and tweak your way through this to get to a horizontal crack where the climbing eases up significantly and follow positive holds to the anchor. This climb is most commonly toproped but can also be climbed on lead with some small finicky gear that takes up some helpful handholds making the climb feel every bit of 5.12a.

Location

Directly under the bolt anchor of "Roof Traverse" under the big roof, just to the left of "Gets Me Horney".

Protection

Toprope from tree anchor or bring some small cams/tricams and maybe a crash pad for the lead.