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Peak Mountain 3

Doctor Spazz

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Description

Sit-start the right side of the steep overhang with a high right hand pocket-like edge and a low left hand gaston edge. Pull on and move to the pocket out left. (This is the right hand pocket on "Fauteux Pocket Problem") Once here, a hard right hand cross move gains the next pocket. Next, toe down hard and move up to a  bad horizontal pinch and then the stellar finger bucket out right. From here, follow the good holds to the top of the boulder.

Location

This climb starts on the right side of the steep overhang and climbs left using the unique pockets of the wall.

Protection

3 or 4 pads. The crux is the right hand cross and you are leaning right towards a rock which could prove to be hazardous if a dry fire or violent fall occurs.