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Peak Mountain 3

Big Baby Jesus

FA Cronin
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

One of the most feared highball boulders in LCC. Unlike other notables, such as KGB arete, Ready to Die, Prowler, or Blue Steel, the landing on this one is very poor. Not only are you high off the deck when you hit the crux (the last couple moves, I'd say), you are over two large funky boulders.

I'm trying to get away from highballs, but finally decided that if I was never going to boulder this, I could at least TR it. It was such a pleasure. There is a bolt on top that is barely useable (though someone hammered the hanger down to try to destroy it), and I backed up the TR with a cord to a tree behind.

If you are bouldering this, bon chance! The holds are all there. I'm sure you can do it. The rock can be a little slick, so careful not dry-firing off the holds at the very top.

Oh, and for those ambitious types, there is an even harder line that branches to the left on smaller holds that are farther apart (v7ish) that I TR'd clean today as well. After establishing on the two good crimps at 15 feet, it shoots up through left hand sidepulls to a thin crimp crux at the very top. To my knowledge, this has not been bouldered.

Location

This boulder is in the lowest area of WR, most down-canyon. Hike up past Big Easy and Bok Tsoi, and look to the right. You will see a big stunning face with wavy sheared plates.

Protection

Three options:

Many many many pads, moderate skill and reckless nature.

A great deal of skill, a little bravado, and a few pads.

A toprope.


Routes in The Wasatch Resort


  1. 78
    Big Baby Jesus
    V6
    Bouldering · Tr