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Peak Mountain 3

Backslider

FA Derek Field & Keith Noback (Nov 2017)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Backslider is a scrappy little gruntfest that you can do if you want to experience some of Mormon Canyon's majestic scenery but you don't have all day and you don't mind getting dusty. Although it technically tops out the summit of a little spire, only the corner pitches (P1+P2) are recommended.

Etymology: even though it's part of the Mormon Canyon community, this backslider is not nearly as pious as the faithful patina shields found deeper in the folds. Double entendre: you will probably do a lot of physical backsliding on this offwidth-dominated route.

Pitch 1: Yucca guards the entrance. Climb an interesting, varied offwidth dihedral with a burly layback crux and lots of backsliding. Might be easier if you're smaller. Two-bolt belay on the ledge. (5.9, 70 feet)

Pitch 2: Wiggle up the dusty chimney (more backsliding) and grunt past a cruxy constriction. At any point after the constriction (the sooner the better), step left onto an excellent slab with lots of huecos for different cam placements. Two-bolt belay at the top of the slab. (5.8, 100 feet)

Pitch 3: Due to sketchy rock, this part is not recommended unless you absolutely must top out this little formation. From the bolt anchor, walk 50 feet clockwise around the base of the summit hat to the far end of the ledge and set a belay using cams in a small pod. Climb fearlessly through a layer of sugar to gain the final ledge below the summit. Now walk allllllll the way back right (~40 ft) until you can boulder through the final layer of gross mudrock to the neat little summit. Belay from double trees with cordalette placed Nov 2017. (5.7+ PG-13)

Rappel the route with a single 60m rope and go take a shower.

Location

Hike up Mormon Canyon (in the wash, as for all other routes) for about 1.5 miles. This is the very obvious left-facing wide corner just past the Goliath turnoff. Two minute bushwhack out of the wash and you're there.

Protection

Single rack to 6" One 60m rope