- Edit (TBD)
Description
Sticky Feet is located just to the right of
The Bulge
and sees very little traffic. The climbing is adventurous and requires a bit of route finding for the onsight. The climbing on the crux pitch is well protected, but the first pitch has some big runouts on ~5.7 climbing. It is a slight step up from
Shades of Gray
with a similar style of climbing.
P1: Head straight up with multiple 5.8 cruxes through overlaps. All of the crux moves have "sticky feet". You will pass a rotten chickenhead on the left about halfway up the pitch. There is a 25 foot runout on 5.7 climbing near the top of the pitch. Belay on the right side of the scoop (5.8, 5.7R/X, 100 feet).
P2: Angle left through the overhanging wall and pull the lip at a huge bucket. Continue up well-protected rock to a bolt to where the angle eases with runout 5.5 climbing (5.9, 100 feet).
P3: Angle right to easy 5th class to the walk-off (5.4, 150 feet).
The first two pitches can be combined with a 60/70m rope, but you will need a triple set of finger-size cams.
Location
Sticky Feet starts about half up the scramble to
The Bulge
Wall.
Protection
Gear to #3, with extra finger-size cams for overlaps.
Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress
- 54Sticky Feet5.9Trad