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Peak Mountain 3

In Search of Don Juan

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Description

When hiking to Upper Mothers from the road, this is the first alcove you see when the trail meets the wall. I was lost thinking I was on the Sunday Wall and following the instructions for locating Don Juan. The route climbs a dirty, offwidth corner using the crack and face holds to the right. Make a wild stemming move up higher, and mantel the ledge. Continue climbing your choice of two cracks off this ledge that lead to another ledge and a dihedral with a walk-off/scramble to the right. This is also known as "5.6 My Ass."

Location

It's the first dihedral you see when the trail meets the wall. This is down and around the corner right of

Crab Head Poseidon God

. It's the obvious, big, dihedral OW crack.

Protection

SR.