Watchman's Secret, Variation

Unknown developer!! FA?? This route is a variation for the second pitch of The Watchman's Secret. After first pitch of Watchman's, head straight up and slightly right after anchor. (Left line = second pitch of original route). Climb over bulge on easy 5.9 terrain via runout bolts and iffy gear to reach glorious horizontal finger crack traverse. With delicate feet and superior crimps, clip two stacked bolts and pull onto vertical face. Layback thin vertical crack, either run-out to next bolt or place a 0.4 cam in flaring, shallow crack and convince yourself it'll hold. Finish on technical bulges and slab to reach anchor for final pitch of Watchman's Secret. PG 13 pro for sure but bomber rock. Crux is transitioning from horizontal to vertical crack (well protected). Clean falls. By itself or tied into other two pitches of Watchman's, this is an exceptional and exceptionally fun route. Five stars.

Start on The Wachman's Secret (see route description). Hard right traverse to first double hanger belay. At anchor, head straight up and right instead of going left for traditional route.

Runout but solid fixed pro: 3/8" bolts. All belays are double Fixe hangers. Three raps with one 70' rope.