Northwest Chimney Route

This page exists to add some 21st century grade and gear clarity to J. Gordon Edward's description of the Northwest Chimney Route of the B-7 Pillar from his 1995 edition of "A Climber's Guide to Glacier National Park."

This route has relatively good rock ... by Glacier Park standards, but it's still PG-13 ... cuz it's Glacier Park.

P1, 5.7: Start in the obvious corner crack; go 90 ft. to the belay/rap station on your right (two pitons and a tri-cam).

P2, 5.6/7: Go into the left gully and squeeze up through the roof/chimney; go 100 ft. to the belay/rap station (slung boulder).

(Note: Pitches 1 and 2 can be combined.)

Unrope at the top of the second pitch and Class 3/4 scramble up the gully to the ridgeline and then left up through a chimney to the summit.

Descent: Downclimb back the the top of the second pitch and, using the existing rap stations, two 30m rappels will get you safely back to the ground.

The route's start is found in the middle of the formation on its north face; two pitons about 30 ft. up on the face will help you find the start. Refer to "A Climber's Guide" for more specific approach details.

• There are no less than six pitons (all solid in 2020) in the first 190 ft. to clip -- A single rack .2-3 (doubles .2-.5 to sew it up) and a small rack of nuts should be sufficient

• 10-ish single-length alpine draws

• 40 ft. of nylon webbing to potentially supplement or replace old tat at the rap stations

• 60m rope