Will It Or Won't It?

70 Meter rope required on this long pitch. Moderate face climbing to a hard crux then excellent sustained face climbing to the anchors. Once you work out the beta at the crux it isn't too bad but it is still hard. With three ascents 11c was the concensus but I wouldn't have a problem with 11+ either. Once you are over the roof work left to the next bolt or you will be on Nancy Boys Nightmare which takes gear. It didn't seem this way when we bolted it but subsequent parties have moved right to bolts on NBN. So stay left on the upper headwall. It isn't any harder and all you need to protect it is draws.

Just left of Nancy Boys Nightmare. Starts just right of a big boulder climbs a slightly funky face and turns the roof band near the right end through the light rock. First bolt is pretty high up but the climbing is easy.

Bolts