- Edit (TBD)
Description
So, on a random lark, I decided I wanted to check out the rock of the Petit Bastille. It was largely what I thought it would be: loose, crusty, and not too aesthetic.Specifically, for Bricklayer's Spite, [start] on a large boulder up the talus field, right off the Fowler Trail. Head up 5.5 ground with little protection until a chance comes to cut left and get into a dark band. Here, it gets steep, and you'll find your first good pro. Head left again to gain a [left]-angling crack with (at the time of this writing) a fixed nut. Climb the crack to a ledge, traverse right a bit and disappear into a chimney. At this point, you have 2 options: 1) stay on the face and work to the summit, left, or 2)what I call "Golpher's Delight", climb further into the chimney and squeeze out right through boulders to the summit. This variation is actually quite fun, and saved the climb for me.
No stars here, but if
Calypso
looks like the DMV at 3:30...consider Bricklayer's Spite. (Or just go for a beer.)
Protection
The summit reqires no real anchor. You can belay, as for
Reggae
, "al [cheval]"...or something like that. I'm not French.
Routes in Petit Bastille
- 1Bricklayer's Spite5.6Trad