- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route shares the first 50 feet or so of Beasts of the Northern Wild and is higher quality. There is a 5.11- crux right off the ground (well protected but think about rope drag when placing gear) which leads to a very easy ramp. The wall turns vertical again and the crack goes into a body-sized V slot/roof feature; climb into this slot (good but tricky protection) and step into the right dihedral (go left here for Beasts). Delicate 5.11 climbing with small gear (take some RPs or small nuts) leads you to a terrific ledge about 40 feet from the top. If you still have energy, keep going up the perfect acute corner. Or, build a gear belay and bring up your partner so that you can admire their technique on steep #0.75s.
To get down, rap with a single 70 to the lower Beasts anchor, then to the ground.
Location
Chokecherry starts in the same corner as Beasts of the Northern Wild and branches into the right corner about 50 feet up. This is the first corner past the big panel that contains Zozobra, Burning Man, and Tip of the Toe. While it is possible to climb the broken rock to the right to get into the corner system, the obvious finger crack start is a lot higher quality.
Protection
Doubles from 0 - #2, set RPs. The upper dihedral is probably best climbed with two #0.5s and four #0.75s. Possible to place a #3 right off the ledge and a #1 up high but both are optional. Slings to control rope drag.
Routes in Upper Wall
- 32Chokecherry5.11Trad