Stiff Kittens

Perhaps this route sees more traffic these days, but around 10 years ago it was a bit mysterious despite being a nice option above the initial pitches of Japanese Gardens. Wander up ledgy climbing above Japanese Gardens P2 towards the roofed base of the large, obvious curving flake. The climbing up to the roof gets progressively more difficult and the crux is moving left around the roof to where the flake curves upwards vertically and the crack behind it opens up more. This sequence is somewhat inobvious and powerful and the former fixed pin above the roof is gone now, although small gear protects adequately. The flake itself is fun, easier liebacking and crack climbing. From the top of the flake, a short "sting in the tail" slab section leads up and left past one bolt to the anchor atop P3 of TPMV.

From the anchor atop P2 of Japanese Gardens, Stiff Kittens is visible above as a large curving flake with its bottom forming a roof feature. For reference purposes, the obvious thin crack/lieback Cheeseburgers on Trial is to the left. The true third pitch of JG is a crack in a groove to the right.

12 years ago, the route had one bolt on the upper slab and no other fixed gear. It was clear that there used to be a fixed piton at the crux, but it was gone at that time. Luckily small cams and maybe some small nuts are totally adequate protection. It might be good to have some small nuts or RPs as well, although I can't recall using them. The upper flake takes some larger gear. The rack required for Japanese Gardens with the addition of a couple of smaller widgets if you didn't already bring them should be perfect. Since it's been awhile, take my recommendation with a grain of salt.