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Peak Mountain 3

Pre-Marital Sex

FA Mike K. & Mark G.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is the obvious splitter crack in a corner about 30' left (up-gully) from The Windows Route. To start, grab your gear and scramble up the gulley to the notch between the towers. Traverse in on a 5.easy ledge on a limestone band until you are below the corner. Optional belay off gear here.

Climb a short section of softer rock to the start of the nice crack. Climb crack (mostly #1 Camalots) to a ledge. Continue up a corner (fingers) and flake to a small roof crack to another ledge. Pull onto the upper summit and belay off bolts.

To descend, rap off bolted anchor. A 70m rope just makes it to the ground, but a 60m rope will easily get you back to the first ledge, where you can traverse back to the notch and down the gully.

Protection

Nuts, single set of cams to #4 Camalot, doubles of .75 and 3 #1's. Some slings are helpful to reduce rope drag.