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Peak Mountain 3

Cracked Egg

FA James Garrett and Connor Barton, 16 June 2009 FFA P1: Eric Salmi July 09 FFA entirety: Jonathan Knight Nov 09
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This steep and wild line ascends the west side of The Egg. Tendon and joint complaints ruled me out for freeing it, but there is no question that someone soon will get a great free pump out of this unique climb. It will be interesting to hear the reports and it will probably yield more stars as a free climb. Equipped and cleaned on lead.

3rd class up a trench-like groove to the base of the route from the trail. Belay to the left of an overhang.

Pitch #1: Two bolts protect the initial slab climbing nice knobs to a crack which soon steepens below the flake. Layback up the overhanging fingers to hand crack to a 3 bolt belay. Beautiful! 5.11c 25m.

Pitch #2: Continue up and left now climbing steep well protected slab past 6 bolts to a two-bolt belay on top of The Egg. 5.12a, 20m.

Rappel the route.

Location

Walk up the newly revised and pleasant Egg trail. A gear belay was set up near the base of the route in a somewhat protected alcove.

Protection

QDs, Set of Nuts and Camalots to #3.