- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is listed as 11b in the book. In the condition this was in when I encountered it I would say at least mid 5.11. It was described as follow crack in corner till you can use finger crack on the right face, which widens into a off width.
There is no crack in the corner so I cleaned out a crack on the left which was completely decomposing and full of dirt. This still requires some full body stemming to work back into the corner crack.
Some great finger crack follows passing 3 pitons. After the OW you will top out on the column that is forming the right face of the corner. I also climbed it without using the OW, just stay in the corner till at top of shorter column.
It appeared that there was a rock slide or column collapse here, there were boulders teetering on top of this column that required trundleing about 1000 pounds of rock off.
continue to bolted anchor above.
Location
A big left facing dihedral on the right end of a smooth wall toward the end of the ramp that leads down from the waterfall.
Protection
standard rack to 2"
3 fixed pins
Bolted anchor at top of column.I removed some very manky slings and added quicklinks, but it still needs chain.
Routes in East End
- 1Trunk Da Funk5.11Trad