Lucky Strikes Again

Is this the steepest 5.9 sport route in Boulder Canyon? Quite possibly so, and it is certainly one of the best new moderate additions in quite some time.

Approach by walking under the lower Coney Island climbs past

Dampened Enthusiasm

, then move up a bit and continue right then down a grassy slope until you see bolts. Upper Coney is above you - do not go there.

Start as for

Pri-Moe

. Climb scaly but okay rock past 3 bolts, and step right onto a big shelf. Gaze at the steep and intimidating headwall, then cast off on subtle but amazing jugs and swarm to the top. Many people will involuntarily whoop somewhere in this section. Great position and outlandish climbing make this an instant classic!

The route faces almost due east and gets great sun in the morning.

7-8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.